Not-So-Basic Pumpkin Bread

Don't be basic: explore the world of pumpkin spice beyond the expected.

It’s squarely Pumpkin Season. Last week, I popped up to Wisconsin and came home with twelve pumpkins of all shapes, sizes, and colors. (I can’t resist a decorative gourd.) Let’s be honest: Pumpkin Season really means Pumpkin Spice Season. But earthy, sweet winter squash shouldn’t be limited to the same yummy-yet-tired combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, and sometimes allspice. What about all of the other exciting and scrumptious ways we can spice up pumpkin?

I wrote a recipe for the Chicago Tribune this week titled “The Other Pumpkin Spice.” The recipe transforms the traditional pumpkin pie into a deeply savory take on the classic. I took out the sugar and replaced it with caramelized onions, ginger, garlic, cumin, and a hefty dose of a locally made garam masala; all poured into a cumin-inflected whole wheat crust. This recipe will surprise and delight anyone with an adventurous palate.

Savory Spiced Pumpkin Pie.

My pumpkin bread uses another not-so-traditional spice mix. The recipe mashes up two of my favorite pumpkin bread recipes of all time: one from Deb Perlman of Smitten Kitchen, and the other from

Alanna Taylor-Tobin

of the Bojon Gourmet.

Why did I mash these up?

First and foremost, Alanna and Deb write incredible recipes that rarely, if ever, fail. I appreciate that Deb's loaf uses the entire can of pumpkin. The texture of Alanna's gluten-free pumpkin bread wows me every time.

What did I change?

I wanted to feature flavor-forward buckwheat flour (shocker!) with a bit oat flour for moisture and softness. To avoid being #basic with the classic/overused Pumpkin Spice, I used Amma's Chai Masala from Tasting India. I wrote about Jasmine’s incredible spice blend company in my Chicago Tribune article. Her bright and complex masala chai blend lifts the earthiness of the buckwheat flour, while retaining the familiar warm Pumpkin Spice tones. It’s different, but still a crowd pleaser

Want to get your hands on some Tasting India chai masala or garam masala? Use code MARTIN25 when you order online at www.shoptastingindia.com. Might I also suggest the Bombay chili crunch? I’ve gone through several jars of the stuff. I don’t get any commission off of these sales, I just love to support such a great local small business.

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Masala Chai & Buckwheat Pumpkin Bread

This simple, gluten-free recipe uses the whole can of pumpkin and makes a whopper of a cake. I use this pan, a large 9 by 4-inch Pullman loaf pan with 4-inch-high sides. If you only have a small pan, take out some of the batter and make 3-4 little muffins on the side.

240 g (2 cups) buckwheat flour

55 g (1/2 cup) oat flour*

60 g (1/2 cup) sweet (glutinous) rice flour*

25 g (3 Tablespoons) tapioca flour*

1 Tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 teaspoons Amma's Chai Masala from Tasting India**

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric (optional, for color)

1 can (15 oz) pumpkin puree (Libby's is the best)

80 g melted butter

45 g olive oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

300 g (1 1/2 cups) sugar

3 large eggs

1 Tablespoon course turbinado sugar + 1/4 teaspoon masala chai

Heat the oven to 350F/180C with a rack in the lower-middle position. Butter a large 9 by 4 Pullman-style loaf pan, ideally this one, and line it with a parchment sling. This is a huge loaf, so if you don’t have a large pan, you should only fill your pan 2/3 full, then make a few muffins with the remaining batter.

In a medium mixing bowl, sift together all of the dry ingredients (oat flour can get clumpy) except the sugar. Whisk for about 1 minute to combine.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the wet ingredients and sugar for about 30 seconds to combine.

Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and whisk for about 30 seconds to combine thoroughly. Since there is no gluten, you don't have to worry about over-mixing. In fact, mixing improves the texture of the final product. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and tap on the counter to level it out.

In a small bowl, stir the turbinado sugar and 1/4 teaspoon chai masala. Sprinkle this mixture on top of the batter.

Bake at 350F/180C for 65-75 minutes, until well risen, firm to the touch, and a knife comes out with just some wet crumbs attached.

Let cool in the pan for 20 minutes, then remove from the pan to cool completely.

*If you don't need or want to make this recipe gluten-free, swap out the oat flour, rice flour, and tapioca flour for 140 grams of all-purpose flour.

It lasts for about 3 days, covered, at room temperature.

**Swap this mix for any pumpkin spice or chai masala mix you like.

Happy Baking,
Martin