Although spring sprung, summer fruit feels eons away. I’ve been hunting for forced rhubarb, but only found a tiny bit. So we’re back on citrus and dried fruit, which works since it’s Hot Cross(ed) Bun season. I feel like most Americans know the song, but not the actual bun. I follow so many British bakers that I see tons of these sticky, spiced, raisin-filled buns emerge in the middle of winter. Influenced by these bakers, I made a few versions myself. I relish the candied peel and the spices, but raisins alone don’t excite me.
What excites me? The maligned prune. I adore them. I eat them as snacks, stew them with some orange juice, and put them on my yogurt. I fill a Danishes or kolache with spiced prune filling. Justice for prunes.
Anything with prunes reminds me of Lt. Worf from Star Trek: The Next Generation. Worf drank prune juice. I'm perplexed about how prune juice is a thing, though. How can you juice a dried fruit? (I know, it’s basically just re-hydrated prune puree.) Prunes get a terrible rap, so sometime way back when someone began marketing them as dried plums, an accurate name, to reseccutate their sales.
My lovely husband told me to use the term "dried plums" because people don't like prunes. Well, I love prunes. Raisins are boring. Use prunes. Oranges and prunes make a lovely combination. Sweet star anise harmonizes with anything orange, so that's the main spice here. You can leave it out or swap it with some ground ginger if you don't like star anise. I suggest you try it, though. Warning: do not add cinnamon to this dough—cinnamon will inhibit the yeast, and your bread might not rise properly.
I know that this recipe is a bit late for Easter, but better late than never!
Orange & Dried Plum Hot Cross Buns
Like many other bakers, I make my HxB using a flour and milk roux known as a tangzhong (or, in German, a Kochstück or Mehlkochstück). The roux makes the buns extra soft and helps them last a couple of days longer.
Makes 6 buns, can easily be doubled.
Roux
20 g bread flour
90 g whole milk
Dough
30 g light brown sugar
Zest of 1 orange
230 g bread flour
1 teaspoon instant yeast
3/4 teaspoon ground star anise
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
75 g whole milk
1 large egg
60g unsalted butter, room temperature
75 g pitted dried plums (AKA prunes), chopped
30g candied orange peel, chopped
Egg Wash
1 large egg
1 Tablespoon water
Pinch of fine sea salt
Cross
20 g all-purpose flour
20 g milk
3 g vegetable oil
Glaze
25 orange juice (from 1/2 of a large orange)
25g sugar
Add 20 g flour and 90 g milk to a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens to a paste that holds its shape, like thin mashed potatoes. Once the mixture is cooked, scrape it onto a small plate and allow it to cool to room temperature.
In a stand mixer bowl, add sugar and orange zest and rub them together to liberate the flavor from the zest. Add the 230 g flour, yeast, star anise, cardamom, nutmeg, and salt. Whisk together briefly to combine. Then, add the remaining milk, egg, and roux to the bowl. Fit the mixer with a dough hook and mix the dough for 1 minute on low speed to combine the ingredients. Turn the mixer to medium-low and knead for 10-12 minutes until it peels away from the sides of the bowl. If the dough seems too wet, add 1 extra Tablespoon of flour. Then, with the mixer on medium-low, add the butter, about 2 teaspoons at a time. The dough won't seem like it will come together, but it will. Continue mixing until all of the butter is added, then keep kneading until the dough is smooth and shiny, about 5-7 minutes more. Cover and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.
Dump the dough onto the counter. Press the dough into a rectangle about ½ inch thick. Sprinkle the chopped prunes and candied orange peel evenly across the dough, then roll it up like a cinnamon roll. This helps even out the distribution of the fruit. Knead the dough for a minute or two to further distribute the fruit. Shape the dough into a ball, put it back in the mixing bowl, cover it, and let it rise until it doubles. This dough takes a while, so it could take up to 2 hours, even longer if your kitchen is cold.
After the dough has about doubled in size, divide the dough into six even pieces and shape them into balls (about 100 grams each). Try to be sure no big pieces of fruit are on the outside of the ball; those could burn. Place the buns about 1 inch apart on a quarter-sheet pan lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. Proof until puffy and risen by at least half, but not quite doubled. When you poke the bun, the impression should only spring back halfway. The buns should be about touching each other, if not totally touching.
Heat the oven to 350F. When the buns have proofed, make an egg wash by mixing the egg wash ingredients and whisking until smooth. Brush the egg wash on the buns. Make the "cross" stuff (no, it's not frosting): combine the flour, water, and oil until combined and uniform. Put the cross mixture into a piping bag or Ziplock bag and pipe crosses the onto the buns. (To be honest, you can skip the cross if you want. It doesn't add any flavor.)
Bake at 350F for 20-23 minutes until they turn deep golden brown and reach 190F in the center. As they bake, make the syrup by combining sugar and orange juice.
Bring to a boil in a small pan and stir until sugar dissolves. You can also do this in the microwave, heating the mixture for about 1 minute on high. Remove from the oven, brush with syrup (you might not need all of it), and cool for 10 minutes. Then, remove the buns to a rack and cool completely.
Here’s my absolute favorite way to eat these. It sends them into another realm.
Cut them in half (like a hamburger bun) and spread the cut sides generously with butter.
Cook them, butter-side down, in a skillet or griddle over medium heat until toasty brown. The buttery crunch and warm pockets of prune—I mean dried plum: heavenly.
Happy Baking,
Martin